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Many aspects of paint performance depend more on the quality of the base than on the color. The tint base largely determines the paint’s toughness and resistance to dirt and stains, while the colorant determines how much the paint will fade.

Create the feel that you want – choose your colour scheme. Keep these simple tips in mind while selecting your pick. 

Size/Shape of a Room:
Paint choice can make your room bigger or smaller. Light colours like pales and pastels lend space to a small room – they are airy and seem to “fade” the walls into a distance and “stretch” a low ceiling upwards. Bold colours are friendly and bring objects closer to create a cozy feel. Contract and match – square up a long narrow room by painting the short walls in a bold colour and the long walls in a neighboring pastel.

Cut down on the excess glare in your room by using dark shades. If you live in a warm climate, plan your colour scheme around the colours of water and trees. Low-lit spaces need sunshine or warm shades to brighten them up.


You relate to your bedroom and your office in different ways. Too many random colours in a scheme can be overpowering. While intense shades are bold and fun, they should be used to accent or punctuate neutral but cheerful colours. For instance, a bold green can be teamed with a lighter yellow.


Furniture and Furnishings:
Keep your furniture colour in mind – wood is also a colour! If you want to scale down a bulky sofa, put it against a wall of the same shade. If you want to show it off, put it against a contrasting wall. To blend and yet preserve its identity, set it off against a colour with yellow tones – lime or yellow beige. Shades of white on walls can take the widest range of furnishings. On the other hand, light coloured furniture allows for the use of deep colours on walls, furniture colour in mind – wood is also a colour! If you want to scale down a bulky sofa, put it against a wall of the same shade. If you want to show it off, put it against a contrasting wall. To blend and yet preserve its identity, set it off against a colour with yellow tones – lime or yellow-beige. Shades of white on walls can take the widest range of furnishings. On the other hand, light coloured furniture allows for the use of deep colours on walls.

Painting your spaces is about much more than just protection of your walls. Just like the colours of the clothes you wear, the colours of your home are an expression of your personality.  These effects can be used to enhance your workplace or home and set the mood you desire.

Have your painting job done in a more organized way:

  • Check our complete product range to see what best meets your needs.
  • You can then locate our dealer closest to your home by using the store locator. 
  • Remove hardware from doors and windows, loosen light fixtures or mask them with tape and scraps of paper or cloth.
  • It is preferable to buy all the paint you need at one time and in the largest possible pack size for convenience and also to reduce the chances of slight colour variations between batches. It is also more economical.

Surface Preparation

Good surface preparation is an important part of a paint job. Different types of surfaces (wood, plaster, metal, etc.) will require different paint preparation procedures. The preparation procedure for a given surface type at an interior of a home may completely differ for the same type of surface at a home’s exterior. 

Preparation of New Plastered Surfaces

  • Repair surface defects. Ensure the plaster is fully cured and dry.
  • Use sandpaper/wire brush to remove all loose sand, nibs, and other build-ups.
  • Scrape off fungus, mold growth, and salt deposits by wire or coir-brushing. Wash with running water and leave to dry thoroughly.
  • For interior walls smoothened with lime punning, allow 6 – 9 months for curing. For POP jobs, allow 20 – 25 days for drying.

Preparation of Previously Plastered Surfaces

  • Repair surface defects. Remove soft, blistered, loose or flaky paint, chalk, dirt, and dust: sandpaper, wire-or coir-brush under running water.
  • If the previous coating is Lime Wash or Dry Distemper, scrape off thoroughly.
  • Wash fungus affected areas with fungicide. Observe for a few days for the reappearance of fungus.
  • Wash off stains and grease on interior walls with a mild soap solution.
  • If the previous coating of Acrylic Distemper or Emulsion Paint is in good condition, sandpaper lightly to remove surface sheen/gloss.

Preparation of New or Unpainted Metal Surfaces

  • Scrape off all rust, scales, etc. and rub dry with emery cloth/paper or wet rub with kerosene.
  • Wash with mineral turpentine, and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Preparation of Previously Painted Metal Surfaces

  • Remove all blistered, loose or flaking paint.
  • Clean rusted areas down to bright metal.
  • Remove all traces of oil and grease with mineral turpentine, and dry.

Preparation of New or Unpainted Wood Surfaces

  • Sandpaper along wood grain to smoothen the surface and dust off.
  • Treat the wood by applying 2 coats of anti-termite, anti-wood borer, etc. water repellent / anti-fungal solvent with 6 – 8 hours intervals. Dry for 72 hours.

Preparation of Previously Painted Wood Surfaces

  • Remove all blistered, loose or flaking paint by scraping or dry sanding with emery paper No. 120.
  • Remove all traces of oil, grease, smoke, by washing with a soap solution.
  • When dry, sandpaper lightly and dust off, etch out for painting defects and know how to solve them

Preparing damaged Surfaces:

1. Defect: Bittiness

The painted surface feels rough and coarse. Small particles of solid matter project above the surface of the paint film.

Dust in the atmosphere
Dry and broken skin in the paint can
Impurities in the paint can
Unclean paintbrush


  • Ensure a clean and dust-free surface before painting.
  • Strain the paint through a cloth before painting.
  • Do not apply paint in windy conditions.

2) Defect: Blistering
Formation of small bubbles on the surface of the paint film which may eventually burst, exposing the surface underneath.

Trapped air or gases.
Moisture beneath the paint film.
Corrosion (rust) under the paint film.


  • Allow the surface to dry fully.
  • Avoid paint application in rain or extreme heat.
  • Allow each coat time to dry sufficiently.

3) Defect: Blooming
Cloudy/dull discoloration and loss of gloss which sometimes forms on the surface of glossy paints or lacquers.

Rapid condensation owing to surface cooling
Use of fast evaporating solvents.

Surface Preparation for Wood

  • Any moisture in the wood will result in blistering of the paint system. Knots on a wooden surface, ooze some kind of oil, and to prevent any damage from them, they must be sealed with Maripol B-30 knotting compound.
  • The dried wood should be dry-sanded, using medium-coarse paper. The sanding should be carried out across the wooden grains. Wipe off all loose particles and dust, using a dry rag pad.
  • For all practical purposes, Richwood N.C. Sanding sealer must be used for sealing the pores of any wooden surface but for the best results:
  • Richwood Melamine Sealer must be used under Melamine Finish while Richwood P.U. Sealer is recommended under clear P.U. Finish.

Modus operandi for preparing the wooden surface remains common

  • Seal all wooden knots with a thin Maripol B-30 solution. A Rag pad or a brush is used for the purpose. Allow to dry the knotting compound.
  • Apply two coats of thinned sealer, wet on wet. Allow to dry for 2-3 hours. Dry sand using fine sandpaper. Sanding must be carried out across the grains.
  • Apply one more coat on the sanded surface, allow drying and sanding across the grains, using very fine paper.
  • The surface must be silk smooth and all the grains must be well filled.
  • Apply any finishing system, N.C., Melamine, or P.U.

Surface Preparation for Metal

Cast Iron

  • The surface must be made free from oil, grease, and rust, by sandblasting. If for some reason, sandblasting is not possible, the Rustosan Rust Remover solution should be used. It removes oil and rust in a single operation and also mildly phosphates the surface for longer-lasting of any paint system. 
  • After priming with red oxide primer, blowholes, if any, should be filled up with two-pack epoxy putty or with Eurofil Polyester Putty. Wet sand the putty with 80 number emery cloth. Allow to dry thoroughly and commence painting.
  • Any surface to be painted for the first time, sandblasting is ideal. In case, the surface is being repainted, remove old paint film, using Euro strip Paint Remover and then use Rustosan Rust Remover, which will take care to remove rust and grease from the nooks and corners of the structure.
  •  In case the painting is to be carried out in a marine or chemically corrosive atmosphere, a thin coat of Rosalee Metaprime-H (two-pack zinc chrome wash primer) is recommended. Again, for the best corrosion resistance, Epolac Epoxy Zinc Rich Primer (two-pack zinc primer) should be used.

Galvanised Surface

  • After removal of oil or grease, a thin coat of Rosalee Metaprime-H or synthetic zinc chrome primer must be applied. However, if there is any “white rust” on the galvanized surface, it should be wiped off with 3-5% phosphoric acid.

Brass, Copper or Bronze

  • On exposure to normal weather, these metals turn darker. To preserve the natural luster of these metals, they must be covered with a coat of clear. Before that, oxides on the surface must be removed, using a 5% solution of citric or tartaric acid. The clear must be applied as soon as the surface is dry.

Even the best paints won’t give you value satisfaction if the job isn’t done right. Therefore, it’s best to follow the appropriate technical painting procedures.